Tatev Adventure

One sight I was dying to see in Armenia was Tatev, which is described as the most beautiful monastery in the country architecturally as well as ecologically, it is also one of the most important sites historically and although it is remotely located it draws in high numbers of tourists. My roommates Lauren and Taylor were equally excited to see this site. It is about three hours from Areni where we work and we were warned that it is a treacherous drive and a gruesome hike, as it is located at the top of a mountain. These warnings scared off the rest of the crew who were originally going to come. We ended up convincing Nathan to join at the last minute, and our neighbour Lillit accompanied us to make sure we didn’t get too lost. The cab arrived, and we fit four people in the back seat... four people in a backseat in forty degrees and no air conditioning on a three hour drive up a mountain is something I hope to not have to experience again.

I had to mentally prepare myself for the drive up the mountain, as I knew it was supposed to be quite bad, however, I never truly realised how completely dangerous a public road to a countries leading tourist destination could actually be. The road was barely wide enough for the cab, and directly on the other side was the edge of the cliff with no railings. I began to freak out as we spiralled up the cliff and begged to get out and hike. The road was not properly paved and the cab driver thought it would be a good idea to swerve to avoid them on this crazy road, so we would be at times facing the edge of the cliff. Then he got out his cell phone and began to drive with one hand... I lost it. I don’t think I have ever been so scared for my life.

When we finally arrived to Tatev my legs felt like jelly, but it truly was one of the most phenomenal places I have seen. The Monastery is larger than any of the others we have visited, and the entire complex is still standing – including the barracks, kitchens, bishops quarters, churches, classrooms, among many other rooms. It’s amazing to walk around and imagine life in the 900s as a priest. Tatev was the art university for priests learning calligraphy, painting, bookbinding and other arts. Many of the amazing Illuminated Manuscripts in the Matanadaran were created at Tatev or by those who studied at Tatev. The dorms were dark and cold, and the kitchen had only two lavash oven pits left inside. You could also walk on the roof of the monastery and look down at the highlands at the most amazing view I have ever seen. It was really breathtaking. My favourite part of the complex was a large carved column standing in the middle of the complex which was built in the 900s on a hinge that allows it to sway back and forth during earthquakes and storms. Some say it was used to detect such earthquakes before they occurred. It was called the demon tower by the enemy’s of Tatev, as when they saw it swaying they would run away in fear it was possessed.

After our visit to Tatev was finished we hiked up to a restaurant which overlooks Tatev for a small lunch. We had a yougurt, green onion, dill and cucumber soup with lavash, and then a ground beef kabob and potatoes. The ride downhill was much easier on my sanity, and I was entertained by Nathans ridiculously long jokes. On the way home we stopped at a roadside stand that was selling fresh teas in bouquets and also had natural gum in a jar. We bought some tea and stopped to talk to some locals as the car was getting gas (the gas tank is located in the trunk of a lot of cars here, which I found quite strange). One of the Armenian women we talked to had recently moved to Toronto and was visiting with her husband, always nice to see a fellow Canadian!